What has garnered criticism in the 60s, turned into alternatives in the 70s and 80s, whipped for a lower fat content in the 90s, is now making what some could call an “all natural comeback” this decade. Butter, what many cardiologists once thought was the enemy of hearts everywhere, has sustained cultures since the beginning of time. It has been around since the time of King Tut, pretty much produced the same way, except cow’s milk is the preferred source rather than camels or even water buffalos. To craft this gastronomic treasure, about 21 pounds of fresh cows milk is needed to create one pound of culinary liquefier.
Butter’s comeback has lifted the spirits of culinarians worldwide. Once it was revealed that it was not butter that was the health culprit, but rather the hydrogenated transfats in the alternatives, skillets, saucepans and cake molds could come back with a vengeance; or at least with butter. Hormones were regulated, bones were once again supplied with vital nutrients that come from butter, and bodies were given back the vitamins and minerals that margarine and the like imposters deprived them of.
While butter does not need to be refrigerated, it should be stored in a butter keeper so as to prevent air and light from breaking down its molecular structure. This would cause the butter to have a rancid flavor. Longer shelf life would be had if butter were kept refrigerated, though it should be stored in an airtight container so as to prevent it from picking up the flavors of the other products being stored with it.
Butter is one of the more unique fats used in the kitchen in that it does not require the killing of an animal to produce it, such as with the manufacturing of lard. Though, without human intervention per se, butter would not exist. Its 80-86% fat content means that it is not pure fat, rather an emulsion that contains fat, milk solids and water. In the pastry world, butter adds rich flavor and flaky texture to the products being made. So how can something so good gain such a bad reputation? The myth that “fat makes you fat” is one reason.
Researchers and scientists at one time thought that the fat in our diets made people gain weight. So modern diets turned to man-made alternatives, many of which contained high amounts of trans-fats. The result was a fatter, more depressed population, since dieters deprived themselves of one ingredient that made them feel full, as well as supplied them with a level of hormone regulation. Those who turned to sugary and starchy replacements to satisfy their hunger found themselves gaining pounds rather than dropping them.
As bakers, butter is perhaps one of the most prized possessions to our culinary creations. Anyone who has tried to nix butter from a recipe in order to “save on fat and calories” knows that the end result is just not the same. Though on the flip side, butter at times is added to shortening because of the strength needed from the hydrogenated molecules. Shortening is also easier to work with since it has about triple the melting point than butter does. Therefore, while shortening gives a home baker more ease, taste is sacrificed; there is an unmatched flavor attained when butter is used as should be in baking ingredients. Simply put, take the butter out of a butter cookie and substitute for margarine or shortening, and the flavor will NOT be the same.
Dating from at least 2000 years before the existence of Jesus, butter has been an integral part of civilizations worldwide. Only in the second half of the 20th century has butter’s identity been called into question. As the new millennium approached in 1999 and obesity rates reached an all time high, butter’s reputation regained its rightful place in both the culinary world as well as the diet-conscious minds of people everywhere.
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