Chez Victor at Hotel Le Germain

If you’re the type to glaze over at the words “hotel restaurant,” then read on because Chez Victor at Toronto’s Hôtel Le Germain (dubbed one of the world’s “Coolest Hotels” by Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List) is definitely as attention-grabbing as it is notable. And that’s not just because its sleek interior, including an imposing glass and steel wine cabinet (see photo) divides the chocolate brown granite topped bar from the sophisticated dining room. No, it has more to do with Executive Chef David Chrystian’s seasonal dishes, expertly paired by GM and Sommelier Mark Moffat’s wine suggestions.

Niagara Charcuterie Plate

Before the parade of beautifully plated dishes arrive, a refreshing amuse of tuna tartare in a cucumber cup with micro-greens appears. Next up, Chez Victor’s Niagara Charcuterie Plate featuring none other than Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, salami, chorizo and bresaola (Pingue has been deservedly called “the Niagara Peninsula’s Prosciutto Maestro” by the media) with pickled vegetables and some Blue Benedictine cheese from Quebec. A quenelle of chicken liver paté adorns a corner of the plate and the dining companion who usually steers away from liver anything gleefully spreads the silky paté atop a delectable baguette round and smiles with satisfaction. An organic pumpkin and chicken soup with jerk spices is a chunky concoction with nutty pumpkin seeds adorning the hot, spicy broth - perfect for a cold autumn night.

The mains include a seared tuna loin, rosemary rubbed with olives, garlic smashed potatoes and ox-eye daisy caper relish. Bitter rapini sets off the combination; the sushi grade tuna melts in the mouth. A much more hearty, cold-weather dish, the roasted Berkshire pork loin and belly Tourtiere with organic potatoes, glazed turnips and apple salad is filling and satisfying. While the tourtiere brings back memories of the first time this Quebecois favourite was sampled by yours truly, Chez Victor’s buttery crust outdoing anything previously savoured, the evening favourite goes to the succulent tuna loin. With dinner, a glass of a new favourite red was discovered: Step Road Sangiovese from Southern Australia. If you haven’t enjoyed this red’s delectable nuances, do try it. The best way to describe it in my humble estimation: velvet on the mouth. It’s divine and it also happens to be the evening server Renee’s favourite too. A beautiful wine worth seeking out (and not currently found at the LCBO I might add)!

Outstanding Dessert

Not to be outdone, the deconstructed black forest cake was another highlight. A dense, flourless chocolate cake forms the base of this decadent sweet finish with house-made vanilla ice-cream and freshly whipped cream sitting on top. The plate is set off by wonderfully brandied cherries that add a terrific boozy, post-modern Bavarian kick to the whole dish.

The service was attentive and friendly without an ounce of pretension or pushiness. Floor to ceiling glass windows adorn the front of the restaurant while candles flickered in the warm glow of the dining room. An ideal place to dine with friends or family, for a romantic evening, or to celebrate any occasion during the rush of the holiday season. The hotel also offers an impressing array of services for corporate clients and their needs including meeting rooms and catering menus should business come before pleasure.

FYI- during the next couple of months, Chez Victor is hosting Evenings to Remember featuring the live musical styling of Amanda Martinez (Sat. December 8, 2007) where you can hear her sing Latin-inspired themes, as well as Laurell (Sat. January 19, 2008) whose gorgeous melodies will make dining all the sweeter.

Read more about Hôtel Le Germain and Chez Victor and stay tuned for a few inspired recipes, compliments of Chef David Chrystian!

Chez Victor Dining Room

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