Founder and most effusive foodie guide in Toronto, Shirley Lum is an infectious ball of happy energy. She’s the kind of hostess that puts a smile on most everyone’s face. And when the occasion happens to be a Chinese New Year Banquet that she organizes for 18- well, you can’t help but delight in Shirley’s knowledgeable company.
The group dining last weekend at Toronto’s A Taste of China Restaurant (338 Spadina Avenue) in one of the city’s many Chinatowns, arrives wearing varying shades of lucky red, jade and gold for the occasion. Shirley greets everyone with a “Gung Hey Fatt Choy” in Cantonese, “Gong Xi Fa Cai” in Mandarin, and just to be safe, a “Chuc Mung Nam Mui” in Vietnamese. Any way you slice it- it’s a Happy New Year for all- and being Toronto, our group is made up of Shirley’s Chinese-born parents, her sister and family (including Persian brother-in-law), this writer’s family, two Canadian pals, a Bangladeshi and the Croatian husband- a veritable UN of happy diners. Shirley giggles as she tells the group that because her party arrived sooner, she actually bumped the high priest of Canadian fashion design, Alfred Sung and his party, from the coveted back table. About 20 minutes later, the well coiffed Sung (in his trademark black-rimmed glasses) and his family sit down to a sumptuous feast of their own.
What was billed as an eight course banquet turns into a nine course extravaganza of fantastic food- in part due to some diner's vegetarian preferences and non-pork based diets (hence the upcoming Egg Tofu dish-yum!). Shirley starts by saying that traditionally, Chinese New Year’s meals took days to prepare at home. But these days, with mothers working outside of the home, convenience has taken hold and many families (hers included for the FIRST time ever) have been choosing to celebrate in a restaurant instead of at home.
Each dish has its own symbolic raison d’être and each tastes better than the last if that’s possible (which is why Shirley suggests you pace yourself! Wise woman). We start with the Crab Meat in Fish Maw soup that tastes infinitely better than it sounds. With shards of crab meat and egg white, it’s warm, thick and perfect on cold February evening. We move on to the Big Shrimps with mixed Seafood Stir Fry- a dish full of plump jumbo shrimp dressed up with lucky red chili that perfumes the air with its garlicky promise. Scallops with cashews and vegetables follow with lots of spring peas and celery slivers- green represents long life after all (the same colour as our chop sticks for the evening) and the scallops coins (read: money).
One of the big hits of the night is up next- Crispy Fried Chicken with Shrimp Chips and spiced salt. Fried chicken sounds simple enough, right? But this chicken is a revelation- crisp skin, juicy meat and the salt is flavoured with a hint of white pepper and anise. Served with the shrimp chips- this union is meant to promote strong family ties and happiness. Shirley describes it this way, “In Cantonese, ‘GUY’ is chicken, and there is a phrase ‘Ho sigh guy’ which literally translated refers to peace or harmony or life going well. So I guess, one wishes for wealth, health, abundance and harmony in life with this dish.”
Pork dishes, round egg tofu coins (like mini-omlettes- the yellow tofu symbolizing happiness)with Chinese green moss and the best sweet & sour pork ribs you’ve ever had follow with whole lobsters flavoured with green onion and garlic. Lip-smacking stuff to be sure. The whole steamed tilapia had the entire table completed focused in its green onion, ginger, garlic and soya sauce entrance. Fantastic and it symbolizes prosperity of course! A bowl of steamed, perfectly fluffy jasmine rice (symbolizing plenty) was served second to last so that you could scoop up any remaining greens and sauce that tickled your palate.
After cups of green tea to quench our thirst, we capped off the night with a hot, sweet red bean soup that the picky husband had two brimming bowls of and that most of us deftly polished off as well. We bade the year of the pig a happy good bye and welcomed in the enterprising year of the Rat. This is a year in which most signs are supposed to be on high alert for possible opportunities that are supposed to pop up intermittently. So keep your eyes peeled and this Chinese New Year celebrate as if you’re already the luckiest person around! Just ask Shirley- it’s contagious!
A Taste of the World - Neighbourhood Bicycle Tours & Walks Inc.P.O. Box 659, Stn. P., Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5S 2Y4
ph: 1 (416) 923-6813
fax: 1 (416) 532-0554