Even though everyone’s singing the economic blues, it was a packed house last week at Toronto’s Marben restaurant where some of the city’s best chefs gathered to cook the last meal in a series of five fund-raising dinners in support of The Stop Community Food Centre. The Stop, as it’s called, is a multi-purpose organization based on bringing people and food together “to build dignity and community, educate for greater food and social justice and improve quality of life.” They do this through their food bank, a community garden that volunteers tend and harvest, community cooking programs, and a spate of other services- all in the name of increasing the amount of healthy food that gets into communities.
With that in mind- a beautifully prepared, five course feast was laid out for supportive diners (a portion of their $90 CDN dinner- $140 with wine pairings- went to The Stop) that night. Joshna Maharaj, the resident chef at The Stop fittingly started the night off with some lovely amuse guelle including her pureed beet with mint atop a multi-grain/seed toast with micro-greens. Those were devoured in seconds.
Marben's First Course and Perigee (RIP)
The First Course was presented by the host restaurant- Marben where Chef Craig Alley took a Caribbean approach to wonderful drunken jerk shrimp served with candied yams and butternut squash with grilled pineapple coleslaw. He paired the dish with a tropical cocktail of 12 year old Guyanese El Dorado Rum and a maple infused banana nectar.
Perigee, which much to Food Trend’s dismay will be no longer (due to these economically trying times) turned out a gorgeous plate of pork featuring blood pudding with a roasted apple and whisky puree and caramelized onions, alongside pulled pork with apples, toasted brioche and a whisky ginger BBQ sauce. It was one of the best dishes of the night. A glass of chilled Cave Springs Riesling (07) accompanied the dish.
Chef Carlos' Creation and Italian Rabbit
Course three belonged to the cozy Spanish-tapas eatery Torito owned by Veronica Laudes. The dish, prepared by the talented Carlos Hernandez was a Spring Hills smoked trout surrounded by fingerling potatoes, spinach, multi-hued beets and an herb and egg “salsa” (aka - a deconstructed gribiche). Tiny croutons added texture and interest to the dish, that was a hit all round. A terrific glass of Albarino 2007 from Alargo accompanied this delectable composition. The dining companion would have eaten another if given the chance. But that wouldn’t have been wise because C5’s Rabbit course was up next and it was the most filling of the courses.
Ted Corrado designed a rabbit dish true to his Italian roots- one was a loin wrapped in pancetta, a leg and the most amazing rabbit sausages served with polenta, pioppini mushrooms, stinging nettles and a caponata sauce. The taste-bud zinger came with a bit of a “candied olive”- yes, it was candied and it was somehow amazing. Sweet and briny all at once- it was a whimsical stroke of genius.
The Sweetest Ending of All...
French resto Amuse Bouche deftly handed the sweet course with a Heritage Trio of a rye and maple Paris Brest, a rhubarb panna cotta with bay leaf jelly and Wellington beer (very original), and a Bajan rum baba with Rumtopf ice cream. A Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling (06) capped off the night. Food Trends sat beside former cook and Toronto Star restaurant critic Corey Mintz who cleaned up every plate with an appreciative nod to the talented team behind our kitchen pass-through perch.
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