Interview with an Artisanal Raw Honey Producer
Round Rock Honey's Konrad Bouffard on honey
Aug 8, 2008
Konrad Bouffard is passionate about honey. So much so, that the former school teacher is spreading the raw honey "good word" through his Round Rock Honey Company in Central Texas. If you've ever wondered about what raw honey is, why it's good for you, and why you should support local honey producers, here's a glimpse into the honeycomb.
Food Trends (FT): You weren’t always a bee-keeper and bee expert and you say it was the honey that lead you to pursue this career. Tell us more about your decision to take up the apicultural life in central Texas?
Konrad Bouffard (KB): Several years ago I was a high school geography teacher. During that time I started thinking quite a bit about the unique aspects of the land in central Texas, and about the relationship between local flora and insects. Because central Texas is one of the most ecologically and entomologically diverse areas on the planet, bees became a natural focus. Combine that with a very big sweet-tooth, and I ended up a beekeeper.
FT: What is it about commercial honey producing outfits that doesn’t sit well with you?
KB: Look closely at their labels. You’ll find that their honey comes from everywhere but the US. Also, if you put commercial honey under a microscope or test it for pesticides, pollutants, and adulteration, you’ll find that the honey industry is awash in ne’r-do-wells who consistently cut corners and flood the grocery stores with cheap foreign honey and honey-syrups, presumably just to make themselves more money. That’s the problem...their focused on dollars, not on maintaining authenticity.
FT: What is “raw” honey and is that the same as artisanal honey?
KB: Most beekeepers in the US define “raw honey” as honey that has not been heated beyond a temperature that would occur naturally in the hive, or filtered through diatomaceous earth. At Round Rock Honey I take that definition two steps further. My definition of raw honey includes the same rules on heating and filtering, as well as restrictions on refrigeration (or excessive cooling), and storing bottled honey in our warehouse for any significant length of time. Storing honey while also exposing it to extremes of heat or cold can result in a staid flavor, and the formation of HydroxyMethylFurfuraldehyde (HMF). Although HMF is not harmful, it is an indicator that the fructose in honey has broken down, and that the honey in general has lost its edge in terms of flavor and freshness. In any case, the typical bottle of Round Rock Honey is sold within 3-5 days of bottling. In fact we’ve never had a situation where we’ve had to retire a bottle that has been sitting around for too long!
Artisanal honey usually means the honey comes from a small farm, is handled with a greater level of care than would otherwise be allowed by a large commercial outfit, and is typically a mixed flora, or wildflower variety. Price is a good indication of a honey’s true artisanal pedigree. Cheaper honeys cost less, the better honeys cost more. You get what you pay for. BTW, sometimes the term “heirloom” is used interchangeably with “artisanal” when speaking about honey.
FT: You get your bees in part by offering a “bee rescue” service in your area- tell us about how this works. How did you learn to "rescue" them?
KB: I learned to rescue bees just by being around other beekeepers. I also have a few methods that I came up with myself. Generally, I use a low-suction vacuum with a wide mouth hose to suck up the bees in a hive. The bees are deposited in to a large padded cage. Before doing all this I smoke the bees to prevent them from communicating alarm pheromones to the other bees, and to encourage them to gorge on honey before being sucked up. From there I relocate them to my hives, happily foiling the best efforts of local exterminators!
Food Trends continues the conversation with Konrad Bouffard in the next installment. Click here and don't miss it!
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