Lunch in Toronto: Travel the World
A few cheap, cheerful and delicious offerings in downtown T.O.
I confess. When I was younger (much younger), my idea of an exciting lunch out was the little Scottish restaurant. Takeout service, thick shakes, skinny fries. You know who I mean. When I first met McDonalds, a cheeseburger was 19 cents. I date myself a bit, but that way you'll forgive me my limited taste in those days. A frighteningly picky eater as a child (no bread, no eggs, no beef, no vegetables except frozen corn), a good ol' Filet o' Fish (secret nickname: Flayo) without the cheese or tartar sauce, thank you very much, seemed a great deal to me. Heck, I wasn't paying! I was 12. What did I know?
Lunch Around the World Downtown
Swiftly moving ahead many (or is that many-many) decades . . . I now enjoy most food. Preferably well cooked. Well seasoned. Nicely presented. Potentially offering ethnic and esthetic rewards. My own form of armchair travel. Heck, sometimes I even cook it myself. I enjoyed a brief stint as a summer short-order cook in a tavern (nasty) and a longer engagement as an apprentice to two wildly temperamental, supremely talented chefs in a restaurant attempting to be cool rather than great (sometimes scary, but I sure learned the basics). That's another article. But none of that means that I don't continue to appreciate the wonders (and reasonable prices) of a tasty meal that arrives quickly, maybe wrapped in waxed paper. Sure, the budget-minded can brown-bag it and take a home-made p.b.j. sandwich - or even a soggy tuna salad - for lunch at work. But why bother, when our town is full of fabulous culinary offerings from all over the world? Many of them for about the same cost as a good ol' Flayo value meal at the little Scottish place nearby.
Mary Luz asked for my top three choices of "cheap and cheerful" restos in T.O. I considered dozens of places I'd enjoyed and distilled the list down to three long-time favourites. These are places I'd take friends, company from out of town, family and even go all by my lonesome, any day. Any time I wanted a fast, great lunch for a mere pittance. They seem to be the faves of many, as they're often busy. I hope none of the choices I omit take it personally.
Subsequent lists may be in order. Anyway, here we go:
- My first choice is Okonomi House at 23 Charles Street West. I know! I said I didn't like eggs. (Honestly, it's one of the only things I still don't like.) But okonomiyaki ain't eggs! They're dense-yet-fluffy griddled egg-pancakes with chopped bits of onion, beansprout and a hint of ginger in them. They're thickened a bit with rice flour and the result is a golden-crisp cross between an omelette and a savoury pancake. Delicious, topped with your choice of chicken, pork (heavenly caramelization here), shrimp, bacon (rather decadent), scallops (my fave) or just plain (I think they still call this "vegetable" but, because of the egg content, it's not exactly a vegan's dream). They're brushed with barbecue sauce and a dollop of mayonnaise is plopped in the centre. Who knew eggs were fabulous? Who knew fast food was interesting, delicious, good for you - and such a bargain? Mickey D's: eat your heart out. You could add miso soup, a little salad or rice with teriyaki sauce (we do). There are other main dishes on the menu, too (teriyaki salmon, for instance). But why bother? I'm not sure why the name has been shortened here. Maybe easier for North American pronunciation? No problem, you fill out your own order slip! The delightful disc is prepared in view. Enjoy a glass of Calpico with that (it's a fermented-milk, non-carbonated pop: think very thin, sweet yogurt: yum!). They also offer beer and piping hot sake, if you prefer. The booths are comfy, there are counter seats, service is quick and friendly. This could become a habit. Visit before a movie at the Varsity. Or after. They offer take out, but it's most wonderful if enjoyed immediately.
- My second choice is a bit more casual. When out walking (cycling, driving, skateboarding, whatever), try New York Subway at 520 Queen Street West. Their "burritos" (which are really deluxe wraps and not a Mexican-inspired snack) are amazing. Great taste. A meal in a handful. Beef, lamb, shrimp, chicken, eggplant and other fillings are offered. Most are served in a soft, thin, wrap which also contains a generous spoonful of caramelized onions and mushrooms. There's a dab of mayonnaise in there too: the heat melds the flavours into a rich and delicious taste experience. The whole thing is rolled up and put back on the griddle to heat the outside and add a bit of crispy-ness. I suggest the jumbo shrimp burrito. But there are lots of options - including a number of vegetarian choices. I find their sub buns uninteresting (like eating a loaf of Wonder bread), so although it calls itself a sub place, I've always gravitated towards the burritos. Many other customers seem to do this, too. It's reasonable, fast, fabulous. These things contain all the food groups except chocolate (a mere oversight, I'm sure). I won't say service is exactly friendly. I don't mean this unkindly. Some people are just shy and seem, hmmm, how shall I say it nicely? Grumpy! So do maintain your sense of humour here, as service can be a little cool. C'est la vie. The food here is great, so why worry? Sit in a booth - or grab a table by the window on a sunny day. It's always busy in here, and a lot of people do the grab-and-run. It's too warm and drippy to eat while walking (cycling, driving, skateboarding, whatever). So relax. Enjoy. I think you will love it.
- My third choice may already be obvious to many. A long-time favourite of co-op kids, bike-couriers, Annex students (and profs), art college attendees, Kensington shoppers and AGO-visiting masses, Yung Sing Pastry Shop at 22 Baldwin Street is something few places can claim: a fixture! It's a staple. A classic. A primo lunch destination. It sets the standard. It's recognized by locals and tourists alike. Where else would you go for a fast, friendly, inexpensive, crunchy, tasty lunch? And in a great wandering neighbourhood, too. Just a couple of caveats: it's busy. And there's nowhere to sit except at a couple of picnic tables outside. But you're not going to let a couple of minor details like that deter you, are you? Inside, rows of different dim sum, steam buns and other delectable Chinese finger-food lunch items await you. Back in the kitchen, fresh batches are constantly prepared. Grab a bottle of iced tea from the fridge, order up a handful of different things, grab a stack of napkins, and you're ready. Try the shrimp rolls - tiny, crisp and delicate, they retain just a hint of what fried them. Or the fun kak - crispy, crunchy and nifty little pastries full of pork, dried shrimp and bean sprouts. Or what about a barbecue pork bun? Soft, steamy and just a bit sweet. Yes, they also prepare some traditional dim sum steamed pastries, like har gow (shrimps steamed in a transparent rice flour wrapper - a few of these dumplings can be very satisfying!). And desserts too - I can't resist the occasional sesame ball. Only one question remains: how do you stop ordering? Well, let's put it this way: the prices are very reasonable. You'll be back often. Don't worry about trying absolutely everything on the first visit!
So there you have them: my top three suggestions for a great, inexpensive lunch. Or snack. Or dinner. If you've been to these places before, try them again! Order something different this time. If you've never visited any of them, here's a chance to explore a new neighbourhood and try something fresh, surprising and delicious. Enjoy. And let us know what you think! And, next time you consider dashing out for a quick Flayo lunch . . . think again!
Still hungry? Check out:
June Chua's Trio of Toronto Tastes
Some sexy Brazilian fare and recipes
or some classic Umbrian comfort food!
