Interview with Barbara Fairchild
Bon Appétit's Editor in Chief Barbara Fairchild on food and her latest work.
Bon Appétit is celebrating its 50th Anniversary in style- read what magazine editor Barbara Fairchild has to say about food, the cookbook and the state of eating today.
I caught up with Barbara Fairchild via telephone while she was in Vancouver, British Columbia during one leg of the launch of the beautiful Bon Appétit Cookbook. She graciously took time out of her busy schedule to shed some light on a few issues, and gives us a chance to "virtually" meet her. I think you'll find her a fascinating read.
Food Trends (FT): You’ve been with Bon Appétit since 1978 where you started as an editorial assistant. Was it always your goal or dream to get to where you are today?
Barbara Fairchild (BF): At the very beginning, I never really thought about it, I was just enjoying the job. I was in my early twenties and didn’t think much about what I’d be doing 25 years later. I never set my sights on the top job until I started climbing the ladder a bit more. When you’re down at the bottom of the ladder looking up- it’s a long journey – but with time, you get more used to the idea that you might like to take over some day.
FT: Describe to our readers your love affair with food. When did it start and what sparked its first embers?
BF: It goes way back with me because my mother was/is an excellent cook. I used to help her in the kitchen a lot growing up. My family has always been into food; when there’s a lot of good times associated with being around the table and you enjoy eating good food, you want to learn to make good food as well. When I was an early teen, Julia Child started appearing on TV- I enjoyed watching her cook, even if back then those recipes weren’t what I’d try to make. In high school, I also loved Home Economics- the cooking part of it, definitely not the sewing part. I’m journalism major and the fact that I landed a job with a magazine about food was a bonus. It was a job using what I was trained to do in school with what I enjoyed to do in my leisure time. I feel as though I’m the luckiest person on the planet!
FT: After so many years immersed in food writing and seeing the tides come and go in the food industry, what still fans the flames of your personal passion for food?
BF: My personal passion for food is fanned by the fact that the world of food- restaurants, travel, wine and sprits- is constantly changing. I still learn something new every day because the landscape is constantly shifting. It’s still so fascinating to me personally.
FT: How did it feel to be inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s “Who’s Who in American Food and Beverage” in 2000?
BF: I was quite surprised, deeply flattered and honoured. It’s a major accomplishment. I’m a current trustee of the James Beard Foundation and I know how difficult it is to get in there. I was and am delighted.
FT: Tell us a bit about The Bon Appétit Cookbook in your own words- what makes it so unique?
BF: I think the fact that we have such a large number of recipes- more than 1200 recipes in 800 pages is wonderful and it’s the DNA of the magazine: accessible, easy, modern- relevant recipes that speak to the way we want to cook and eat today. And they’re fun to make. What I want to do with the book is what we do with each issue to the magazine, bring new people into the great world of food, restaurants and travel by showing them not only what a great escape it can be, but how food infuses every part of our culture.
FT: Why wasn’t a a book like this published sooner by the magazine?
BF: As a magazine editor, we work very far ahead of time and so I knew a long time ago that in October, 2006 the magazine would turn 50. We were approached before to do a compendium, but we’ve never done anything this big for the retail market. We felt that by bringing it out at the same time as the magazine, this would give us a double chance to celebrate as well as bring Bon Appétit to the fore for its 50th year.
FT: For those that aren’t sure, how would you say Bon Appétit differs to other food magazines, such as Gourmet for example?
BF: Bon Appétit has always been about inviting people into our world and letting them know they can do this- they can make this dish, travel to this place. It’s all about what they can do. It’s now about us telling them how we do it, it’s about how they can do it and make it happen at their house. We offer very accessible, do-able recipes that can be made without investing tons of time and that still enable the cook to be very proud of what they made. Ease and accessibility are key for us.
From a physical sense, our magazine is lighter and brighter, I’d say it offers a much more modern voice and is far less ponderous. Bon Appétit is for people who want to become involved with food and don’t just want to read about it.
FT: What’s one food trend you see on the rise that you think has longevity?
BF: I think people are becoming more interested in Moroccan spicing, much like Thai, Vietnamese and regional Italian ones have become more popular over the years. Once these ingredients are more prevalent in the market place or new influences become prevalent on menus- people will want to try and recreate these flavours at home. Moroccan spicing and food has found its way into a lot of bistro style restaurants, and so called "grill" types of restaurants. I find Moroccan a particularly satisfying, aromatic cooking style- that uses all sorts of warm and fragrant spices in a wonderfully balanced way without being too spicy hot. Once people get used to seeing them in restaurants, they want to try them at home.
FT: What do you think about the persistent trend of Chef as Celebrity?
BF: It’s not a trend any more; it’s simply a fact of life. Two of the biggest influences on food in last 15 years are definitely the Internet and the Food Network. The Food Network has done something very interesting in North American culture- it’s made being a chef a career choice that wasn’t as popular say 10-20 years ago. Now people see how successful they can be- it’s a completely legitimate career path now.
FT: What do you think about the trend in food television to move away from what TV execs call “dump and stir TV” to more drama based shows that have little to do with food?
BF: It’s a shame. Food on TV has moved into the realm of entertainment- the way most things on TV do. Not a lot of learning or teaching goes on anymore- with the exception of Alton Brown or say Giada De Laurentiis who does some very nice things on her programme. I enjoy watching people like that. Emeril at the beginning was very good- now with the band and the studio audience, it’s become a parody of itself. The people that are coming in after him are like him, they’re of the add more butter or more cheese school of thought and that’s not what good cooking is all about. The majority of people who like to cook, don’t cook that way.
FT: Do you wish more North Americans would sit down to more home-cooked meals more often?
BF: I think people are very busy, I don’t deny that- but there are ways to cook every night or 4 nights a week. Our “Fast Easy Fresh” section in Bon Appétit addresses that; food that’s sophisticated and modern yet really appealing and easy to prepare. And this is food that’s just as good for entertaining as it is for gathering the family round a table.
I think it would be great if people could learn to sit down with their families a few nights a week- at least on weekends to have a familial gathering at the table, even if it’s breakfast. Sunday dinner was the big thing at my house. We used to sit down to something special at our house on those days- like a roasted chicken or lamb. It’s important to make the time to do this.
FT: If you had to describe yourself as a dish- which would it be and why?
BF: I would be a rich, bittersweet chocolate brownie- because it’s sexy and a little goes a long way!
FT: Thank you for your time Barbara- it was wonderful speaking with you.
BF: My pleasure and thank you!
What do you think readers?
Do you agree with Barbara-are North Americans eating out too much? Not eating at home enough with their families? Do you miss the days when Food shows were actually more about food than personalities (some would say egos?). Do you buy food magazines to cook from or just look at and read? Pull up a chair in our discussion section and let's hear it!
To read about another exceptional food personality, check out Stephanie Gallagher's interview with Chef Tom Colicchio.
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NOTE TO READERS:
- And because all of my FT readers are on the top of my gift-giving list, I'll be throwing in a little bonus for you- within the next few days, I'll be posting a recipe or two from the new Bon Appétit Cookbook to share with your family and friends. Consider it an early Christmas present!
