La Bruschetta Restaurant, Toronto

They say the proof is in the pudding, but I like to say that the proof is in the sauce when it comes to Italian cuisine. At Toronto’s La Bruschetta, the charming Benito Piantoni (see photo above) and his equally charming daughter Silvia have been whipping up plate after delectable plate of wonderful Italian food for over 25 successful years now. Few restaurants in the city can boast this kind of trajectory and few can honestly say some of their most loyal customers are Hollywood A-List celebrities. From Aidan Quinn (those eyes!) and Ryan Gosling to Sofia Loren, a host of heavy hitters choose to head to the Piantoni’s Corso Italia location when they’re in town for good, honest Italian food without the prying Yorkville eyes and flashes from hidden paparazzi (no kidding, I personally know one paparazzo who used to live right in Yorkville and snap his heart out whenever a star came or went from a certain restaurant).

I suppose it doesn’t hurt either when Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen declared that La Bruschetta is their favourite restaurant in the world to Gourmet Magazine. So why is this lovely trattoria so often ignored in our fair city’s food pages? I think it’s because they’re a tried and tested commodity that’s been around for a good long while and food critics tend to stick to reviewing the newest “hot spots.” So for those of you who have never heard of La Bruschetta, let me introduce you.

An Umbrian Classic

Benito Piantoni’s father owned a trattoria in Umbria (from where the family hails) and he learned to cook from papa. He also served as a cook for the Italian Navy- preparing food for the top brass on board several ships. Food has always been a part of Benito’s life and he doesn’t like to do things by halves either- it’s top quality or niente. Here’s a man who still likes to make his own prosciutto, capicollo, sausages, and just about everything else you can imagine that’s labour-intensive – but boy is it worth it in the end. This is artisanal Italian dining at its best.

Silvia told me that this past summer, the whole family (including some “extended family”- restaurant staff) gathered at the Piantoni home in the wee hours of the morning to make traditional tomato sauce with no less than 325 bushels of the red orbs! Now that’s dedication. No pre-packaged pressed garlic or frozen basil cubes here either- everything is fresh and you get true flavour in every bite.

Cooking With the Pros

I recently headed over to the restaurant for a little cooking lesson from father and daughter. What a treat! If you’ve ever had real Bolognese sauce over a plate of fresh gnocchi (yes, they hand make their own as well), you know what I mean when I say heavenly!

Benito starts his sauce out by adding some good olive oil to a hot sauce pan, along with some chopped onion and finely diced celery. He stirs them until they soften and adds a little hot water to the mix. After the water evaporates, he then adds ground veal (that he grinds himself- because, as he says, “I can do better than the butcher!”), and a splash of good white wine from which he lets the alcohol cook off. After this, three large ladles of what I call “nectar of the gods” (the family’s home made sugo- or tomato sauce) are added to the pot and then simmered. A touch of quality tomato paste, salt to taste and a pinch of oregano is added near the end of the cooking process to round it all off.

Here’s a tip from Benito if you want to ensure your sauce is ready:

• Take a tablespoon of sauce and put it on a light coloured plate. Observe the sauce- if it’s really watery and runny, it needs to reduce more.
• If it’s got a little bit of liquid, but isn’t runny and just encircles the meat, you’re sauce is ready. No more guessing- I like that! Just don’t overcook it and turn it into a paste.

Served over pillow-soft gnocchi, this dish is a clear winner. Silvia also made me some Pappardelle with Wild Mushrooms to savour- what a wonderful dish. Simple, rustic and bursting with flavour- perfect cold-weather fare. Even the complimentary bruschetta you get at the beginning of every meal is quality and freshness in every bite. I can’t wait to go back and sample some of Silvia’s home made Tiramisu or the intriguingly named Bruta Ma Buone (Good but Ugly) dessert- a mess of Italian cookies and chocolate with sweet mascarpone cheese- this is one mess I’m guessing you’ll be happy to clean up!

Gifts and Tips:

And here’s another invaluable dining tip: although the menu offers everything from soups, salads, pasta, veal and seafood dishes all ranging in price from $9 to $23.00, regular diners know the best way to order is by telling someone in the family what you’re craving. Everything is made in-house and per order. Any request will be filled as long as they have it in the kitchen!

One last thought- if you’d like your very own cooking class, just give Silvia a call and let her know what you’re interested in learning. Ask and it’s likely ye shall receive- these are very kind and hospitable folks!

A one-hour class goes for $75.00 CDN and that includes the feast at the end, where you get to eat, drink and be merry with the Piantoni clan. And, in the spirit of the holiday season, what better gift to give that foodie you’re fond of other than an authentic Italian cooking experience? Now how’s that for making this Holiday season memorable!

La Bruschetta

1317 St. Clair West (at St. Clarens near Dufferin)

Toronto, ON

416-656-8622

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